By Paul Berry
The opportunity to see the sacred Inca ruins of Machu Picchu is on bucket lists the world over. That iconic view of Machu Picchu mountain towering above the ruined city has been selfied, #hashtagged and “Instagrammed” perhaps more than any other of the ancient or modern wonders of the world. And so, as I arrived in Cusco after a 3-week stint at Spanish school in Lima, deciding exactly how I was going to tackle this once in a lifetime journey was my biggest priority.
Cusco is somewhat of a welcome relief from the modern, dusty and sometimes sketchy streets of Lima. It’s ancient square, bordered by two massive cathedrals runs into quirky, narrow backstreets that are a joy to just wander around…if you can block out the almost constant melee from tour touts and trinket sellers. And that’s just the thing. In Cusco there are endless companies offering to take you on that journey of a lifetime, each waxing lyrical as to why their tour is so much better than the guy next door!
Never one to be taken in by offers of cut price, last minute, never seen before discounts, I like to do my own research over a quiet cup of coffee before deciding. This time though, the ball was started rolling by a recommendation from my friends at the Healing House hostel where I was staying. According to them, Adventure Peru Path, owned and managed by Roxner Cardenas were one of the best in the business!
A quick trawl on Trip Advisor firmly backed this up with a full set of glowing 5-star reviews. Impressive, considering the number of people who have used their services. Reading people talk about the comfort of the camping experience and the quality of the guides was one thing, but I’m not embarrassed to say that it was actually the descriptions of the gourmet food that sealed the deal for me (each to their own of course) 🙂
Contact with Roxner was as easy as sending a WhatsApp message. He responded almost immediately, gave me a range of options of the tours that they offered along with prices, pointed me to their website to read more details and then (and I really liked this!) he left me alone to make my decision.
I knew that a trek on the famous Inca trail route was out of the question. Due to restrictions on the number of passes issued to use the trail each day, that particular route which takes you right to the Sun Gate of Machu Picchu itself is always booked up more than a year in advance. I’m just not that organised!
It was the Ancascocha Trail though that caught my eye. It was the combination I think of its promise of being the path less travelled (I do love to get away from the crowds!) along with National Geographic’s endorsement of it being one of their “20 Dream Hikes”. If it’s good enough for NG, it’s good enough for me I thought. And so, I selected the 4 day/3 night itinerary, and within 24 hours I was sat with Roxner in my favourite coffee house, going over the pre-trek briefing. As he talked me through the route and the logistics, it was evident that this wasn’t a hike for the feint-hearted, or the unfit, but I felt up for it. And so, I went back to my hostel, Adventure Peru Path duffle bag in hand, to pack for the trip.
Packing was easy, as you get a comprehensive list of what (and what not) to bring. Your kit is carried on horseback and so there is understandably a weight limit, but it’s more than sufficient to ensure you can prepare for a number of different weather scenarios – this is the mountains after all!
Having set my alarm just ahead of our pre-dawn pickup time, I sleepily climbed aboard the APP mini-bus for our 2-hour drive out to the trailhead. The bus was super comfortable, and despite fighting to stay awake for sunrise, I did catch myself drifting back off to sleep! Our driver made some pretty special manoeuvres to get us as far up the trailhead as he could realistically manage (these guys pride themselves in getting you ‘further in’ then any other company!) and soon we were doing a last equipment check, snacking on the light breakfast provided, and saying hello to our team of porters, and horses.
The group was small, just me and another young British couple (who we discovered lived just a couple of streets away from me in London….small world!) and that suited me perfectly as it gave an extra special personal touch. Our guide for the next 4 days was Freddy. With his special blend of wit and charm and a penchant for storytelling I knew we were in for an entertaining and informative few days.
As we started walking you immediately had the sense of being off the beaten track. There was literally nobody else around, and the silence was beautiful. It was a short hike uphill to the Perolniyoc Waterfall and we were soon taking our first pictures, gathering together for selfies and catching the refreshing mist from the impressive cascade. Our porters had forged ahead (they do this almost stealth-like!) to get our lunch spot prepared, and so just the 4 of us left the falls to begin the main section of the morning’s hike.
On a hike that starts at an elevation above 3,500m, you need to be prepared for the effects of altitude. It hits different people in different ways, and there’s often no rhyme or reason to how or when you feel the effects. For me, despite being a keen cyclist who considered himself in ‘good shape’, the going was tough! As we climbed up through the most spectacular mountain scenery, I noticed my pace was significantly slower than I would normally expect. “That’s completely normal” Freddy told me and my co-hikers, “the itinerary allows for that pace, and we can adjust if we need to. Just enjoy the views”. Reassured, that’s exactly what we did, and as we arrived at the first Inca ruins on the trail, I will never forget the breathtaking vista back down the valley from where we started. I was to discover that the views in the Andes really do never stop giving!
After a quick history lesson from Freddy on this particular site, we were on our way again. A tough section of ‘off-road’ trail led us through remote Andean villages and farms, and we were watched curiously by the local farmers….and Llamas! Just as our energy levels were getting to the spent stage, Freddy pointed out some tents setup just a little way in the distance. Our porters had been busy, and our lunch spot was ready and waiting. Settling back to enjoy the first of many culinary masterpieces created by ‘Chef’ on the side of the mountain, I thought about just how right those TripAdvisor reviews had been. The food was truly amazing!
A light siesta and a toilet break (I really wasn’t expecting a portable bathroom to be provided. nice surprise!) and we were on our way again. Finally reaching the highest point of the day, the view from the pass was nothing short of spectacular. Blessed by a clear day, we had a full 360-degree view of the surrounding area, with snow-capped peaks disappearing far off into the distance. Admittedly it was a little ‘blowy’ and so we did add a couple of layers as we enjoyed the view, and the rest!
The afternoon’s trail was, thankfully, more of the downhill variety and we arrived at our campsite for the night just ahead of sunset. Once again, all of the reviews had been right, the setup of the campsite was fantastic! Our tents (which were ready and waiting for us with our gear) were spacious, the sleeping mats were comfortable…and the hot water and towel ready for us to wash with was a nice touch!
Quickly changing into warmer clothing, we were soon feasting on some well-earned snacks, and buzzing about the achievements of the day while Chef prepared dinner. As we watched the sun set over the mountains, the Andes had one more special treat for us – the night sky was truly incredible. I have genuinely never seen such a stunning array of stars and constellations; it was a beautiful moment.
As we sat down to dinner, I was excited to see what Chef had prepared for us; and I was not disappointed. I almost lost count of how many courses we had (it was 5) and every course was a culinary delight! A special mention though about the presentation…. carving our fruit and vegetables into the shape of mountain animals was unexpected, but great fun! And so, I retired for the night with a full belly and tired legs, the mountain air bringing a deep and restful sleep.
Every morning in camp we were woken with a gentle call outside the tent from one of our porters, asking whether we would like coffee or cocoa tea to help wake us up! Despite knowing that the Cocoa Tea is really good for altitude adjustment, I can’t resist the caffeine kick from freshly brewed coffee (not to mention the aroma) and so my choice was made. Once again, we were given hot water to wash with, and then after a full breakfast, both delicious and energy boosting in equal amounts, we were quickly away for our 2nd day in the mountains.
Day 2 was my favourite day. Easing us into the day, a short steady trail brought us to the crystal blue, ice cold waters of Ancascocha Lake. Fed by, and taking its name from, the majestic Ancascocha glacier the lake is a beautiful sight. As we passed it, I remembered Roxner pointing to a long winding line on the trail during the pre-trek chat, and describing it as the toughest section. As I looked ahead, I could clearly see our porters and horses taking what appeared to be a never-ending switchback trail that went up…and up…and up!
Taking collective deep breaths, we crossed a small stream that fed the lake, and began our climb. It was hard, no question, and it required a fair bit of dogged determination to hunker down and keep going. But stopping for frequent breathers (Freddy was always reminding us to take time to rest and look around) as we looked behind us, down on the lake from increasing altitude, the views were sublime. Finally reaching the summit of the pass, we all took an opportunity to lay down, exhausted but elated at our achievement.
Once again, our afternoon was easier on the legs, and we gradually descended for a couple of hours to our 2nd and final campsite, nestled at the foot of some rather beautiful ruins. It was noticeably warmer than our first night, on account of the much lower altitude, and so I could go to sleep wearing just a few less layers than the previous night! The advice on the packing list to bring layers of clothing was spot on, as it gave the flexibility to adjust as required both during the hike and at night.
Following a fascinating tour of the ruins from Freddy, our final day of hiking took us onto a section of the Inca trail that took us back to KM. 82, which is the official start of the Inca trail. We got many inquisitive looks from the scores of hikers who were setting out on their multi-day trek to the Sun Gate, wondering just why we were ‘going the wrong way’. But where these guys were part of a convoy of hikers several hundred strong, they were the first people we had seen on the trail in the last 3 days. I have to confess to feeling a little pleased with myself!
After another delicious lunch at KM82, we bid farewell to our porters, horsemen and, of course, Chef! They were quite a team, and we had all really bonded over our time together on the mountain. Soon though we were in a mini-bus winding our way along the back roads to the Sacred Valley town of Ollantaytambo, and our train ride to Aguas Calientes.
I have to admit that settling back into the comfortable seats on the scenic train service was a real treat! Served with delicious coffee and cake, I so enjoyed the journey along the gorgeous valley floor and the very different perspective it provided of the mountains in which we had just been walking. The journey was 2 hours, but as we pulled into Aguas Calientes I genuinely wished it had been longer. Never mind, there was much to look forward to still; not only our group dinner at a local gourmet hotspot, but of course the jewel in the crown, our tour of Machu Picchu.
Having checked into the hotel, I was delighted by the super-comfortable bed, and the hot shower, the perfect antidote for my weary body. The rose petals on the bed cover were perhaps a little unnecessary for this solo traveller, but a nice touch all the same 🙂 There was a bit of time to rest, since I opted not to try out the local hot baths that were popular with hoardes of tourists and locals alike.
We made our way to our restaurant spot, and I’m pleased to report that dinner did not disappoint. The ice-cold beer (not included) went down a treat, and we were treated to some delicious local delicacies. It was a lively, sociable couple of hours as we shared our own thoughts on the trek, and Freddy waxed lyrical about some of his previous adventures. You could tell we were all a little weary though, and in need of an early night, and so by 9pm we were headed back to the hotel for a restful night’s sleep, and an early alarm call!
Buses to Machu Picchu from the town start at around 5am, but the queue starts a lot earlier! Freddy, being the gentleman that he is, had volunteered to join the queue at 4am and suggested we join him a little before 5. We didn’t have to be asked twice, and despite feeling a little uncomfortable slotting myself in next to Freddy ahead of the multitude of others in the queue, as I saw the snake-like sea of people leading far back into the distance, I soon got over it! I was happy to buy Freddy a cup of coffee for his trouble 🙂
There are literally scores of buses that pull up one after the other to transport the thousands of tourists every day to the gates of Machu Picchu. And so, it was only a little after 5am that we were aboard a bus, and enjoying the 25-minute winding journey upwards. Alas the weather wasn’t with us, and the sunrise that I had been hoping for was hidden behind some fairly menacing looking clouds! Not to worry, there were more important things to see.
There’s no getting away from the fact that Machu Picchu draws a LOT of tourists. So, nobody should visit expecting a completely serene experience. Even at our early hour there were tour groups by the dozen shuffling through the gates, but this is where Freddy and the guides at Adventure Peru Path really come into their own. They know the site so well, and they know the routines of the other guides so that they can pick a route that is, well, a little less busy than it otherwise might have been.
Emerging through the gates and into the open, I have to admit to being a little overwhelmed as the ruins came into view. There is something about seeing in real life a site that you have seen so often in books & magazines, on TV and films that sort of takes the breath away. I remember getting a similar feeling at the Grand Canyon, at Victoria Falls and, I’m not ashamed to say, every day as I walked across Tower Bridge in my beloved London. Machu Picchu is one of the new 7 Wonders of the World for very good reason, it is indescribably spectacular!
We stopped, looked and took it all in for a while before Freddy began our tour. No spoilers here, but suffice to say the tour is incredible and Freddy’s knowledge and story-telling abilities really brought an extra dimension to the experience. Once the tour concluded, I had elected to climb Huayna Picchu mountain (tickets for the smaller, less gruelling Machu Picchu mountain were not available). First thing to note is that this is a TOUGH climb. Steep, slippery and narrow steps lead up for roughly 90 minutes to the summit. From the top I can imagine the views are truly spectacular, but alas the weather had closed in and I could barely see my hand in front of my face! Never mind, it was a good workout 🙂 So my advice would be, check-in with the weather before attempting the climb.
Finally, it was time to return to town to catch the train back to Cusco. As with everything else on this tour, all parts of the journey ran like clockwork and in what seemed like no time at all, I was climbing out of the mini bus at the Healing Hands hostel.
To describe this as a journey of a lifetime doesn’t feel like doing it justice, but that’s truly what it was. And it was the professionalism of the APP teams, their attention to detail, their slick organisation and their great sense of adventure that made it so. I can’t recommend them highly enough!
